La Dolce Vita: Our Italian Tour
Neal and I always wanted to take our moms (and I guess our dads too) on a trip, one where we would do all the planning and take them somewhere they had never been. When we asked where they would like to go, they both said the same place: Italy. We had planned a trip for the summer of 2020, and literally 2 days after booking our tickets, a little thing called the COVID pandemic changed the world forever. We always planned on rescheduling but life always seemed to get in the way. Finally, 6 years later, we made it happen, though this time with an extra companion: our rambunctious two-and-a-half year old.
Our breakdown was as such: 5 nights in Rome, 4 nights in Florence, and 5 nights in Puglia. You can find plenty of guides about what to do in Rome and Florence, arguably the most visited areas in Italy. In Rome, history is so visible, so tangible, it is truly incredible. There are not many places in the world where you walk on the same cobblestone streets as the emperors, royalty, and popes that created modern Western society. You see pictures of the Coliseum, the Trevi Fountain, and the Pantheon, but they simply do not do them justice. The sheer magnitude and true beauty of these structures is astounding, and knowing these were built so long ago makes them true engineering marvels. The distinct neighborhoods all have a unique vibe, from the quaint cobblestone alleyways in Travestere to the bohemian vibe of Monte to the historic masterpieces in Centro Storico. And you cannot go to Rome without making a trip to Vatican City. Getting to see Michelangelo’s genius in person is just incredible, and St Peter’s Basilica is impressive both in its size and beauty.
Trevi Fountain
Rome is so much more than all these great sites: it’s also about the food. Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, and Amatriciana are absolute must-haves for me before leaving. Roma Sparita had an amazing cacio e pepe, Emma had a great carbonara, and Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina had an amatriciana I am still trying to replicate at home. But honestly, just leave the heavily touristy areas and walk into a local taverna or wine bar, and you’ll have amazing food and drinks. Neal discovered a limoncello spritz, and it became his go-to for the rest of the trip.
Salumi dance
Florence is probably the most beautiful city I have ever seen. We visited almost a decade ago, and on returning, it still took my breath away. It is the birthplace of the Renaissance and houses some of the most important artistic masterpieces of the era. It is a true living museum, with art around every corner, stunning architecture, and a vibrant culture. Like Rome, there are engineering masterpieces here too, with the Duomo of the Cathedral de Sana Maria del Fiore defining the city’s skyline. It’s easy to get lost wandering the different alleyways, stopping for a glass at a wine window or having an apero while people-watching in one of the many piazzas. You can cross the Arno River over the famous Ponte Vecchio to my favorite Oltrarno neighborhood, where there are wonderful wine bars and artisan shops. Florence is also the gateway to the rest of Tuscany, which has a countryside that is just as picturesque. It’s definitely worth taking a day trip to explore it. Make sure to stop by San Gimignano, a gorgeous town in the middle of the rolling hills that make Tuscany so picturesque.
Duomo of the Cathedral de Sana Maria del Fiore Duomo of the Cathedral de Sana Maria del Fiore Ponte Vecchio Ponte Vecchio at sunset Wine windows Piazza Michelangelo San Gimignano, Tuscany San Gimignano, Tuscany 
Tuscan countryside
Florence may be known for its Florentine steak (we had a good representation of it at Buca Lapi), but true Florentine cuisine is so much more than that, celebrating the rich and fertile lands around it. Think rustic soups, crostinis, beans, tomatoes. Le Volpe e l’Uva is an amazing wine bar that had some of the most inventive and delicious crostinis I’ve had, not to mention a wide variety of wines by the glass. Jai ate an entire plate of local cheese and salumi here. Cibrèo Trattoria and L’Ortone offered some of the best renditions of Tuscan cuisine: lasagne, polpette, ribollita, and coccoli. Good food is around every corner; you don’t have to look too hard. I’ll venture to say that even the obviously touristy places around the different piazzas have decent food and libations.
Spread at Le Volpe e l'Uva One of many spritzes 
Buca Lapi Florentine Steak
Puglia is still somewhat lesser known as a vacation destination, but the secret is getting out. Forming the “heel of the boot” in southern Italy, Puglia is known for being the nation’s breadbasket, its olive oil and wine production, unique architecture, and having one of the longest coastlines. Puglia produces over half of Italy’s olive oil, is the origin of burrata cheese and orecchiette pasta, and is actually one of the largest wine producers. The cone-shaped trulli houses and whitewashed alleyways are iconic for this region. The coastline is over 500 miles long, with landscapes varying from the dramatic cliffs of Polignano a Mare and crystal clear waters of Salento. We rented an amazing villa just outside the town of Cisternino and used it as our home base to explore the region, and after 5 days we barely scratched the surface. From the 1500+ trulli homes that make the town Alberobello special, to getting lost in the limewashed bleached passageways in the towns of Ostuni and Locorotondo, to admiring the stunning cliffsides of Polignano e Mare, this region of Italy truly has my heart.
Polignano e Mare Otsuni Locorotondo Cisternino Polignano e Mare 
Ostuni Alberobello Ostuni Ostuni Alberobello Alberobello 
Salumi dance...again
There is still so much more to see–we didn’t even make it to the beach this time! However, I don’t regret it; spending time at our villa every evening, drinking wine and just hanging out with our family is something that I will always cherish. In fact, a true core memory was on our penultimate night; our Airbnb host Gio, who was just amazing by the way, helped us arrange for a pizza night at home and a photographer to capture the memories. The pizza set up itself was out of a movie, with a classic old red truck parking on property with a woodfired pizza oven in the bed. The food was delicious, the wine was fantastic, and hanging out with our local host and his family made this a night that I will never forget. This night personified Italy: great food, amazing hospitality, and a gorgeous setting–the true definition of La Dolce Vita.
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